All too many visa-seeking expats end their explorations of Bulgaria at the border crossing. But Turkey's under-appreciated neighbor to the north is well worth a weekend trip. Take a sleeper train to historic Plovdiv, Bulgaria's second-largest city, which entices with millenia of history and a vibrant art scene
Istanbul's expat community suffers from a strange affliction: an irresistible quarterly urge to visit Bulgaria. But while many travel to Turkey's northern neighbor solely to score a new visa, the country offers far more than just a Nescafé at the border. Next time the three-month warning sounds, pick a free weekend, pack an overnight bag and give Bulgaria 36 hours of your undivided attention.
While Sofia stands out as Bulgaria's largest city and vibrant capital and Varna lures travelers to the country's scenic Black Sea coast, lesser-known Plovdiv is the perfect destination for a cross-border jaunt. Situated some hundred kilometers closer to Istanbul than either Sofia or Varna, a trip to Plovdiv means more time spent exploring and fewer hours in transit. As Bulgaria's second-largest city, Plovdiv has a wealth of historical, artistic and cultural attractions, yet the Old Town core is blissfully compact. Armed with a basic map and a good pair of walking shoes, the city's sights can easily be experienced on foot over the course of a single whirlwind weekend.
Old Town, new tricks
Plovdiv reveals an intriguing synthesis of old and new. Built atop the ruins of an ancient Thracian settlement, the city has been an important regional hub since at least 7,000 B.C. The current city bears witness to its impressive legacy, as Neolithic sacred sites share space with Roman monuments, medieval walls, Ottoman-era mosques and hamams and a plethora of exquisite 19th-century buildings from the National Revival period. Although justifiably proud of its skillfully executed restorations and culture of preservationism, Plovdiv also looks to the future by nurturing a dynamic contemporary-art scene, ensuring that a youthful vitality balances the weight of its history.
Begin a weekend in Plovdiv with a visit to the Archaeological Museum to gain some perspective on this rich past. Situated inside a grand 19th-century mansion, the museum features an impressive collection of Thracian art, including the legendary Panagyurishte treasure — a group of incomparable golden artifacts from the fourth century B.C.
A short stroll down the central Rayko Daskalov pedestrian boulevard from the museum ends at the Dzumaya Mosque, which is among the oldest in Europe. Converted from a church by the Ottomans in 1364, the building was extensively restored last year. Heading east from the boulevard toward the heart of the Old Town, Plovdiv's Roman theater emerges from the valley between two central hills. Only discovered in 1972 thanks to a freak landslide, the magnificent monument has been largely restored to its former glory and still showcases live performances.
Continue up the Old Town's steep slope to the heart of the National Revival district, where dozens of historic homes and mansions — many open to the public — display the beauty and charm of 19th-century Bulgarian architecture, woodworking and wall painting. One of the most impressive specimens, built in 1847, houses the city's lovely Ethnographical Museum. The collection boasts folk costumes, traditional crafts, and artisans' tools, along with several period rooms. Best of all is a room devoted entirely to musical instruments, including a ghostly music box and a memorably odd street organ, complete with dancing puppets.
Plovdiv also upholds a long tradition of Eastern Orthodox icon painting and other religious art. The Church of Sveti Konstantin and Elena, Plovdiv's oldest, features a stunning iconostasis, or wall of icons, separating the nave from the sanctuary. The lingering scent of frankincense makes visiting the church a particularly evocative experience. The nearby Museum of Icons, situated in the church's former schoolhouse, exhibits a small but enthralling collection dating back to the 15th century.
For a taste of Plovdiv's cutting-edge art scene, head back down the hill to Hebros square and duck inside the arched portal of the Center for Contemporary Art. Housed inside the Chifte Banya, an Ottoman-era hamam, the gallery hosts temporary exhibitions by young artists from Bulgaria, the Balkans and beyond, as well as providing a space for local musicians, dancers and performance artists to debut new work.
Planes, trains and automobiles
Plovdiv is easily accessible from Istanbul by road and rail and can be reached by plane via Sofia. For a weekend getaway, the best bet is to take the Bosphorus Express from Istanbul's central Sirkeci station, which departs nightly at 10 p.m., arriving in Plovdiv around 9 a.m. the following day. The train's cozy and romantic sleeper cars run just under 60 Turkish Liras per person each way and include bunk beds with clean sheets, adjustable heat and air conditioning, private wash basins and, of course, free cups of tea. The only catch is a sleepy 3 a.m. wake-up knock for the border-crossing formalities.
There are also several bus companies that make the trip in roughly seven hours, albeit with far less comfort and charm than the Express. A one-way ticket from Istanbul's main bus station costs 35-40 liras.
Bedding down in Old Town
There are numerous places to stay in central Plovdiv, ranging from bland business hotels to elegant boutique inns and bare-bones hostels. Perhaps the best choice in the Old Town is the Hotel Renaissance (www.renaissance-bg.com), which features carefully restored wood floors and hand-painted walls. The owner, Dimitar Vassilev, serves up strong coffee and friendly advice in the on-site restaurant. Next door is the famous Café Starino, a beautifully dilapidated haunt that has served caffeine and stronger stuff since Ottoman times. A double room with private bath costs roughly $100 per night.
For a cheaper alternative, try the Raisky Kat hostel (www.raiskykat.hostel.com), located just up the hill. More of a home-stay than a hotel, the welcoming house features a few spare but spacious rooms off of a central courtyard. Expect to be greeted by at least three generations of the owner's family, along with two sweet and pudgy dogs. A double room with private bath runs just $35 per night.
Nazdrave!
Say "nazdrave" (cheers in Bulgarian) over a bottle of red or a glass of grape brandy at Petnoto (ul Ioakim Gruev 36), a cheerful nightspot just west of the Center for Contemporary Art. The lively venue offers a cozy and inexpensive restaurant in the back and a rollicking bar in the front, with frequent live performances and nightly DJ sets. For an unusual local flavor, try the Thracian "katmi," a golden crepe filled with tender beef, tangy tomato paste and grilled hot peppers. Like the rest of Plovdiv's unique charms, the taste is sure to linger.
